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‘Batik’ refers to the process of applying a dye-resistant substance to a fabric to prevent it from absorbing colours. Many of the things you will need to create batik can be found in and around your home. For the few items that might not be available, you can always find them in any arts and crafts shop.

Fabric made from natural fibres is the best kind to use for batik. A good example is unbleached muslin. Cotton, silk, Crêpe de Chine, georgette and chiffon are popular fabrics as well. Due to their artificial stiffening, taffeta and non-washable silks are not recommended for batik. Whatever fabric you choose, make sure that it is washed thoroughly before starting work. This avoids unwanted shrinkage later on and removes excess dye (if the fabric has previously been dyed). When the fabric is dry, iron it.

Beginners to making batik may consider using an old white cotton bed-sheet to practise on. Cut this bed-sheet into 18-by-18 inch squares. Once you’re done practising, do not throw away these pieces. Sew the ends of these squares of cotton fabric and use them as scarves or even give them away as hand-made gifts.

Before you proceed to apply the wax and dye, you will need a frame to stretch the fabric. If you intend to create only one piece of batik, save money by making your own frame: cut up a piece of cardboard and use duct tape to keep it together. Another alternative is to stretch the garment over a cookie sheet or other baking implement. If you intend to create batik regularly, then invest in a ‘wooden stretcher bar frame’ artists use for mounting canvases. These frames are especially good when using silk for batik; in addition, they also prevent the fabric from coming into contact with the surface of the table whilst the wax is being applied.

If you have a design in mind, draw your design out on a piece of paper. Then, use a soft pencil and copy the design directly onto the fabric. Remember, the pencil mark should be dark enough to last the following stages the fabric might have to go through.

You will need to prepare the wax in a double boiler: put an empty coffee can in the middle of an electric skillet filled with water. Pour a mixture of paraffin and beeswax into the coffee can. Do not use paraffin or beeswax on its own; paraffin alone crackles too much and beeswax alone doesn't crackle at all. A combination of the two keeps the wax malleable and can be re-used to save time and money. There are, essentially, three ways to apply wax to a fabric. 

1.     The first is to pour the wax onto the fabric letting it spread randomly. Thereafter, the fabric is immersed in the dye.

2.     The second is to confine the wax to certain portions of the fabric using a brush before immersing the fabric in the dye.

3.     The third technique requires more skill and is called ‘Batik Tulis’. This term, translated from Bahasa Malaysia, literally means, ‘Write Batik’ – the artist ‘writes’ on a blank white cloth with melted wax using a ‘canting tool’ (pronounced ‘chanting tool’). As in holding a pen, you should grip the canting tool between your thumb and both the forefinger and middle finger. The last two fingers should act as additional support. In this way, you will have a proper grip on the tool.

Make sure the wax you apply penetrates the fabric completely. If you need to apply layers of wax, always ensure the fabric is completely dry before adding the next layer. If not, the dye might bleed under the wax into other parts of the fabric.

Buy only fibre reactive dyes because they can be used at temperatures below the softening point of wax – this means that when you use hot water to remove the wax, the dye does not come away as well. Read the instructions on the mixing of colours. To test the colour, immerse a piece of fabric in the dye for a few moments; when it is dry it will be several shades lighter than when it is wet.

To apply the dye, remember to start with the lightest shade and work your way to a dark one. Prepare the dyes as suggested by the manufacturer. Then, put the dye in a bucket and immerse the fabric for about 20 minutes. After that, rinse the fabric. If the colour is not deep enough, immerse it in the dye again. Allow the fabric to dry by hanging it with clothespins over a stainless steel sink or an old, folded towel.

The above technique works when you want a colourful finished product. However, when you have a design that is complicated, instead of immersing the whole fabric in dye over and over again, you can paint on the fabric.

Many people assume that removing the wax is the hardest part. It is not necessarily so. The most popular methods are:

1.     Simmering the fabric in hot water – add liquid soap, rather than detergent, to a large pot of water. Using this soap generally means you don’t have to bring the water to a boil before the wax floats to the top of the pot. This method should not be used when trying to remove wax from silk.

2.     Ironing the fabric – place the fabric between sheets of newspaper and begin ironing it. The wax will seep out of the batik and into the paper. Change the paper frequently. Do not allow the newsprint to bleed into the fabric and spoil it. Also, the fumes from burning paraffin may cause damage to the lungs. Lastly, since wax clogs the vents of a steam iron, it might be better to use a plain electric one.

3.     Dry-cleaning the fabric. This is appropriate when the fabric is silk.

In the end, making batik is a skill; to become better at it, you need to practice. When you practice this art, you will surely develop your individual style. You never know, what you create just might become a valuable work of art.